by Edwin Quinabo
The highly anticipated Filipino Food Week (FFW) returns for its 6th iteration on Oct 15-21 to coincide with Filipino American History Month. Restaurants across Hawaii will be serving up savory, delectable “Ilonggo Cuisine” of the Visayas region of the Philippines, which is a new culinary theme selected by FFW’s organizer, the Philippine Consulate General in Honolulu.
Instead of a general offering of Filipino food, the specificity of highlighting Ilonggo cuisine will give Hawaii residents, and even the local Filipino community, a chance to experience dishes unfamiliar to their palettes in Illongo-inspired and traditional Ilonggo-dishes.
Acting Head of Post Pamela Durian-Bailon said, “This year, FFW takes us on a culinary journey to the Visayas region by focusing on Ilonggo cuisine. The Consulate chose this theme to tie in with the Very Important Pinoy (VIP) Tour held last July 21 to 30 where Bacolod, Iloilo was one of the featured destinations alongside Manila, Cagayan de Oro and Bukidnon. Over 200 delegates from across the United States participated in the VIP Tour, with the largest contingent coming from Hawaii.”
Eighty five percent of Filipinos in Hawaii trace their origin from the Ilocos region of the Philippines and most Filipino restaurants in Hawaii serve nationally known Philippines dishes.
Immigrants from the Visayas region – who arrived in Hawaii along with Ilocanos in the pioneering years as sakadas – are pleased that their regional cuisine will be getting widespread exposure this upcoming FFW.
The Ilonggo or Hiligaynon ethnic group (mostly Western Visayas, and parts of southern Mindoro and some areas of Mindanao) make up 8.4 percent of the population in the Philippines. Their two main provinces are Iloilo (pop. 1,608,083) and Negros Occidental (pop. 1,821,206).
In the earliest years of sugar plantation recruitment to Hawaii – 1916 through 1921, even before the shift to the Ilocos in the mid-1920s and after – Negros was a recruiting site. The Visayans’ presence in Hawaii runs long and deep in Hawaii.
Carolyn Weygan-Hildebrand, Ewa, said “It’s been a while since I last participated [in FFW], and I’m thrilled to see that this year will highlight Iloilo. I’m eagerly looking at the details and location. The only downside is the traffic in Honolulu Downtown, but the promise of delicious Filipino cuisine always makes it worth the trip.”
Marylou Cadiz, Pearl City, whose husband is a cook in Waikiki and loves to cook Filipino food, said “I definitely will be bringing my husband to FFW so we can test out dishes for him to recreate. It’s so easy today to look for recipes on YouTube. But first, we want to find out this FFW what we like for him to replicate at home.”
What is Ilonggo cuisine?
The term Hiligaynon was derived from Yligueynes that translates to “people of the coast.” So, naturally, common meals of the Hiligaynon-Ilonggo have fish and other seafood as a main component and often cooked with green produce. Also, common meals are soups and meat in broth. Ilonggo cuisine is typically described to foodies as unique and flavorable, sweet and savory.
The Ilonggos have their own regional pancit called Pancit Molo, which has noodles in a wonton soup with dumplings filled with pork, chicken, and shrimp, as well as trimmings of green onions and garlic. A popular broth dish that also has noodles is La Paz Batchoy, composed of pork innards, liver, and heart in a broth with noodles and trimmings such as chicharon and garlic.
Arguably the most well-known Illongo dish is chicken Inasal (chicken grilled in special marinade). Cooks say the key is in the marinade which is composed of coconut vinegar, calamansi juice, annatto, and pepper. The annatto oil gives the Inasal its bright orange color. The chicken is grilled and basted with the same marinade while grilling. Inasal is famous for its accompanying dipping sauce: sinamak vinegar and toyo-mansi with chili labuyo and sliced calamansi on the side.
Some of the main ingredients found in Ilonggo cuisine are chayote (an edible gourd from the cucurbit family), bulalo (beef and bone marrow stew), sinigang (sour soup flavored with tamarind), sinamak vinegar (spicy vinegar) and toyo-mansi (soy sauce).
To the Ilonggos, it’s not their food alone that makes their regional cuisine special, but the whole experience of welcome and presentation. Rafael “Tibong” Jardeleza, renowned Ilonggo Chef and Ilonggo Food and Culture Advocate, said “Food is the language of love for the Ilonggos and we have mastered the art of feeding our guests as a sign of welcoming them to our homes and in Iloilo.”
FL Treñas, who served as Project Executive Director of the Flavors of Iloilo project (a Philippine government project aimed at promoting Ilongo cuisine), said “Ilonggo food evokes emotions of days gone by, from when life was simpler than today’s more complex modern world. Love is evident in the food we serve, prepared with passion and ardor and served with pleasure and joy.”
FFW participating restaurants (as of Oct 1) and FFW Special Menu
This year’s FFW restaurants and their menu items include: Balai Pata (short ribs Cansi with rice noodles and Bok choy), Basalt (Dinner for 2, $90, 1st course, Hamachi Kinilaw, 2nd course Ginaatang Kalabasa Nicoise Salad, 3rd course chicken Inasal with garlic fried rice), Chef Chai ($65 per person, dinner for two or more: frilled Talaba, frilled oyster with garlic butter and cheese, Pinirto na Bawang Pusit, squid, Pancit Molo, Chinese dumpling with pork), Joeys Kitchen (short ribs Cansi with rice noodles and Bok choy), Treats (Macapuno ice cream topped with Kulolo and rice crispies), Max’s Chicken (chicken Binakol), Merienda Maui (chicken Inasal and ube horchata), MW Restaurant ($42, crispy pork chicharron, garlic friend rice, onion and tomato salad), Obake (tbd), Olena by Chef Simon ($20, adobo pork bowl with white rice, pineapple coleslaw and Filipino lemonade), Roy’s Hawaii/Eating House 1849 (chicken Inasal, halo halo, ube-lieve in Paradise), Sama Sama (tbd), Shan-J Restaurant (chicken Inasa, chicken Tinuom, Ibos, Binakol, special batchoy, Pansit Molo, Valenciana), Skull & Crown Trading Co (tbd), Tante’s Island Cuisine (Arroz Valenciana with seafood medley, ube ice cream), Tiki’s Grill and Bar ($23, chicken Inasal, calamansi shoyu dipping sauce), Tiffany’s Maui (tbd), Tin Roof Maui (tbd).
Magnolia Ice Cream and Treats, and Merienda Maui on Oahu and Balai Pata, Tiffany’s and Tin Roof on Maui are newcomers to the FFW scene. Tante Urban, Joey Macadangdang and Nemia Aguirre are among the Filipino chefs and restaurateurs who’ve become regulars in FFW. Most establishments participating in FFW also have Filipino employees in their team, who come up with specials for the week.
Food establishments interested to take part in FFW may send an email to honolulupcg.cultural@dfa.gov.ph
Basalt restaurant in Waikiki will be participating in FFW for its second time. Maelani Iokepa (Executive Chef) said, “We at Basalt love Filipino cuisine. A large number of our staff are extremely proud of their Filipino heritage, and they often show it by cooking their province’s cuisines for team members to share. It’s amazing to see the diversity and see how all the flavors tell a story of the history of a people.”
Basalt’s Mark Galacio, Line Cook, said “Filipinos have a long and rich history in Hawaii, and the culture has endured through generations in the islands. We are once again excited to represent our Filipino culture with our Hawaii ohana and the international community.”
Tante’s Island Cuisine is a restaurant in Kahului, Maui that offers a diverse menu that includes Hawaiian, Filipino, and American dishes. General Manager Donna Urban-Higuchi said, “We see this event as an opportunity to not only showcase the delicious food but also to celebrate the Filipino culture and its contributions to the culinary world. Filipino Food Week allows us to connect with our community, share stories, and create memorable dining experiences that go beyond just a meal. Filipino cuisine is known for its bold flavors, unique ingredients, and heartwarming dishes that tell stories of tradition and community. By participating in Filipino Food Week, we aim to honor these traditions and introduce our guests to the authentic tastes of the Philippines.”
Urban-Higuchi said the restaurant will honor the flavors Iloilo in the Philippines, “Our chefs at Tante’s Island Cuisine have crafted a special menu for Filipino Food Week in Hawaii. This menu features classic dishes, including Arroz Valenciana. Our unique creation, ‘Seafood Arroz Valenciana,’ showcases a delightful blend of traditional and innovative flavors.”
Maly San Luis of Max’s of Manila said their special menu dish item for FFW will be chicken Binakol, a classic Filipino chicken soup made of coconut juice, coconut strips, lemongrass and assorted vegetables. She said they’re participating in FFW to share the flavorful cuisine of the Philippines with the people of Hawaii.
Merienda Maui, a food truck originally from Maui that relocated to Oahu in 2023, is owned by Danielle Soriano and Motley Adovas. Their FFW special will be the famous Ilonggo chicken Insasal. They say it will be served on a bed of annatto garlic rice and has the accoutrements of pickled vegetables, crispy onions, and a calamansi ponzu sauce.
“For us, Filipino cuisine deserves to be more widely recognized. It’s a true melting pot, drawing influences from various regions across the Philippines. Each dish can vary greatly depending on where in the country it’s from. There’s so much depth and variety beyond what is known worldwide, and we’re passionate about bringing that to the forefront,” said Soriano.
Adovas said, “We are participating in Filipino Food Week to proudly showcase our Filipino heritage through the dishes we offer from our food truck. Filipino cuisine is incredibly diverse, and we want to introduce it in a way that’s not only exciting but also innovative. By reimagining traditional dishes with a modern twist, we aim to offer a fresh, creative approach to Filipino food that surprises and delights our customers.”
Magnolia Ice Cream and Treats that’s known for their Filipino desserts and Halo-Halo will have special item Macapuno Ice Cream topped with Kulolo and rice crispies for FFW, said Ronald Quesada, Magnolia Treats Strategic Manager. He said, “Filipino food is a meaningful expression of our identity,” which along with a desire to celebrate Filipino cuisine with the Filipino-Hawaiian community is the reason why they are participating in this year’s FFW.
Besides restaurants in Hawaii, the Philippine Consulate General of Honolulu said American Samoa will be participating in FFW like Shan-J restaurant. Romnick Carum, Head Chef of Shan-J said, “Filipino cuisine, it has been steadily gaining in popularity on the global culinary stage. This is the reason why Shan – J wants to participate in FFW, as well as to introduce our very own and unique cuisine.”
He adds, “The rich tapestry of Filipino dishes has been influenced through the years by both indigenous and foreign traditions, creating a rich and diverse culinary landscape. The food is commonly a blend of sweet, sour and salty savory flavors with a little kick of spice, and sometimes a sprinkling of bitterness. Here in American Samoa, the native Samoans are very familiar with Filipino food, and I can say they appreciate every dish that Shan -J serves.”
Growing Popularity of Filipino food
As in American Samoa, where it’s not expected that Filipino food is anchoring a presence, Filipino food establishments can now be is found in the unlikeliest of places like North Carolina, El Paso, Singapore, Paris, to name a few.
Based on social media foodie reviewers and critics, Filipino cuisine is finally landing as “the next big thing” that the late chef Anthony Bourdain and TV food host Andrew Zimmern have talked about, specifically along the west coast U.S. from Seattle to Oregon, San Francisco and the Bay area, down south to Los Angeles, Orange Country and San Diego, and out to the southwest in Las Vegas. New Filipino food establishments of all types – fine dining, mom-and-pop joints, buffets, lunch trucks, popups, groceries — are opening up in all these cities, now pinoy-food havens.
One new restaurant is Kuya Lord that opened in June 2022, whose Filipino chef Lord Maynard Llera won the prestigious 2024 James Beard Award for Best Chef California. Located in the Los Angeles’ Melrose Hill neighborhood, Kuya Lord’s clientele attracts about 80% of guests who are non-Filipino, said chef Llera. The Philippines-born chef who immigrated to the U.S. at age 24 (he’s now 45), said he strives to educate non-Filipinos about its “culture through our food and to be familiar with Filipino flavors.”
In 2023, Tim Flores won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes alongside his partner Genie Kwon as owners of their Chicago-based Kasama Filipino restaurant, which also holds the esteemed culinary distinction of being a Michelin-starred restaurant.
There are other Filipino chefs who have won and been nominated for the James Beard Award, known to be the Oscars of the Food and Hospitality Industry. The rise of highly skilled and celebrity-caliber chefs of Filipino ancestry bodes well for the future of Filipino cuisine gaining ground in the competitive world of ethnic food business. Bordain attributed the popularity of Japanese food in the U.S. to the professionalism of Japanese chefs. Filipino chefs are hoping they can do the same and elevate Filipino cuisine.
An example of enhanced quality Filipino food and services that well-trained and skilled Filipino chefs can present their artistry is in the setting of sit-down and order Filipino restaurants. The common type of Filipino food establishments typically found in the U.S some 20 years ago were carinderias (also known as turo-turos) in which already prepared foods are set up in a buffet style for customers to order from. While less expensive and easy for quick take-outs, carinderias haven’t been able to raise the stature of Filipino food as some of today’s newer establishments.
While Filipino food is on the rise in western and eastern coastal U.S. cities, it still has a long way to go to achieve “mainstream” status. According to a 2023 Pew Research analysis, 71% of Asian restaurants in the U.S. serve Chinese, Japanese or Thai food. Contrast that to Filipino and Indian food, that account for 1% and 7% of all Asian restaurants in the U.S., respectively – even though Indian and Filipino Americans account for nearly 40% of Asians in the U.S. combined.
Llera said his mission with Filipino fast-casual eatery is for Filipino food “to enter the American mainstream and be finally accepted by non-Filipinos like how they accept and crave for other Asian cuisines like Chinese, Japanese and Thai.”
This goal of promoting Filipino cuisine to grow through wider exposure speaks to the heart of why there is a need for a Filipino Food Week in the first place.
The Filipino Food Week is an adaptation of the Filipino Restaurant Week, which started in New York in 2015. It was introduced in Hawaii by then Consul General Gina Jamoralin in 2018. As one of the Consulate’s major cultural and economic activities, FFW seeks to promote awareness and interest in Filipino cuisine. The weeklong event also encourages participating establishments to use authentic Philippine products and ingredients, further highlighting the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage.
Sponsors of FFW are Destileria Limtuaco & Co., Inc., East West Marketing, Inc., G.K. Skaggs, Kasama Small Batch Rum, Mama Sita’s, Maui Chili Chili Oil, SkyFlakes Crackers and Philippine Airlines.
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